#123D DESIGN CUT HOLE SOFTWARE#

If you don’t have access to CAD or laser cutters etc., Pepakura only needs a printer, sticky tape and scissors, and there is a big community of stuff. That said though, on that link you provided (which is a great site b.t.w) there are lots of projects where they apply resin to the Pepakura paper to harden it, and then hours and hours of filler/ sanding/ painting, but they can get sensational results.īoth are for ‘makers’ or hobbyists. There’s no size limits really with 123D Make, as it depends on the material dimensions and what size you can cut, and this affects the resolution quality.

#123D DESIGN CUT HOLE SOFTWARE#

Pepakura software is cheap but 123D Make is free. Stuff like this:Īnd every tab needs to be glued or taped together, to make this: Pepakura always looked too hard/ fiddly/fragile, especially that it’s paper. Jaime, given your experience with the 123Make process, what do you think of the Pepakura process for a similar part? I like the fact that although faceted, you have more visual flow across the “grain” of the surfaces. You can also make hollow models and interlocking parts, these are really fiddly though. I feel that this size (‘head size’) is probably the smallest you’d want to go as the resolution/ fiddlyness ratio gets too hard. One advantage is that it is really cheap, $15 worth of boxboard and $25 worth of laser cutting. I’ve experimented on a previous model, filling and painting, using a non-water based spakfiller (so the boxboard doesn’t swell) and the results are OK but not presentation model standard- even light sanding can cut through the paint to the primer and back to the boxboard: It can be messy with the glue (and wiping away the excess) and because I laser cut the parts, the cut boxboard stinks as a result and there is a lot of ash on the part edges that gets all over your hands. feature (d0 / 3 ul) or Length of Feature.

have used the extruded length parameter 'd0' in the distance portion of the. construction line, then the hole being 'patterned' in both directions. straight through hole with the hole being placed on the mid-point of the. The program automatically numbers the parts and provides pin guide holes and guide lines: Attached are a couple of ways to do equally spaced holes. You then glue the parts/ slices together (this is the ‘slow prototype’ part). You import the CAD file and tell it how you want it made, and it produces the part files as slices as an *eps or *pdf file, according to the material dimensions you have (in this case 2mm boxboard to be cut in a laser cutter 1200mm x 600mm):

I’ve been mucking around with Autodesk 123D Make:

123d design cut hole